Folegandros in Greece

Folegandros is a small island, only 32 km2. In the Cyclades there are only four islands that are smaller: Donoussa, Iraklia, Koufonissi and Schinoussa. Folegandros is only 13 km long from stem to stern; roughly in the middle, the island is only 1,100 m from coast to coast. The highest mountain is 445 meters above sea level.

Geographically, Folegandros is located in the western Cyclades, the nearest neighbouring islands are Sikinos and Milos. Approximately 760 persons are year-round residents, most of them (about 425) lives in Chora. Tourism is the main source of income for the islanders, but agriculture and ranching plays some role, especially for the residents of Ano Meria.

Angali beach.

The landscape is barren, mountainous and treeless. If you have been to Amorgos, you will smile in recognition when you see Folegandros. The mountains are certainly not as high, but the sense of the nature's power is the same. In places, the cliffs are plunging vertically straight down into the sea.

If you look out over the sea from Chora, you will be taken by the fabulous panorama and when you turn your eyes towards the cliffs you will get butterflies in your stomach. That is how steep is it. The mountain sides are covered with endless terraces, despite the impossible slope. You really wonder how the stone walls were built. Talk about a Sisyphean task.

Photos from Folegandros »

Folegandros has developed slowly: the first car arrived in 1970, Chora was electrified in 1974, the big port was completed in 1984 and not until 1986 Chora got a functioning sewage system. Since then, a lot has happened, but the word stress has not yet found its way here. The pace is low. No one hurries. The islanders appears to have adopted the easy-going donkeys. And it rub off on to you, you fell calmer after just one day on Folegandros.

To be on holiday on Folegandros is a little like lying and slumber in a hammock at a country house. So, this is no island for those who want some hustle and bustle on their holiday. Even the evenings are in the atmosphere of anti-stress, the nightlife is virtually non-existent. Shortly after sunset, the cafes and tavernas on the many squares in Chora fills up by villagers and tourists. There are a few bars in Chora, but do not count on karaoke nights or dancing on the bar counter.

Perhaps Folegandros will change in the future. Several better-quality hotels have been built in recent years; the summer of 2007 the luxury Chora Resort opened its doors. The hotel is built in a traditional Cycladic style and harmonize quite well with the other houses, but it looks rather mismatched. A large pool in the middle and quite a few bars, it is said that every room has its own spa. The islanders that I talked to when it was built was not at all happy with what they saw. Who can afford to stay there, I asked? The answer was rich people from Athens and people known from television. In a way, Chora Resort set the bar, and today there are many better-quality hotels on the island.

Kastro in Chora.

You can read more about Folegandros via the links at the end of this page. A short summary of the information comes here:

Getting here is easy. The easiest way is to go by air to Santorini and continue by ferry. You can also fly to Athens and continue by ferry from Piraeus. The bus ply on Karavostasis (the port), Chora, Angali beach and Ano Meria. Scooter and car are available for rent in Chora and in Karavostasis.

There are three villages on the island: Karavostasis (the port), Chora and Ano Meria. Chora is one of the most picturesque villages in the Cyclades, while Ano Meria is one of the most rural. To be a port, Karavostasis is a quite nice village.

Folegandros is surrounded by a crystal clear and shimmering blue sea. The beaches are of good quality, although they are not as paradisiacal as the ones on for example Naxos. The most popular beaches are Agios Nikolaos, Angali (see picture at the top of the page) and Vardia. My favourite beach is Katergo. But there are many more beaches, like Livadaki, Ambeli, Lygaria and Agios Georgios in the north, and Latinaki, Visentzou, Pountaki and Livadi near the port.

When it comes to sights, there is neither ancient temples nor archaeological excavations. But there are other interesting things that you do not want to miss, like the church of Panagia, the sunset, Kastro and the Laographic Museum. The countryside is worth seeing if you like to hike.

There are many choices of hotels and pensions, and the standard is generally very high. Accommodation can become booked out during certain months of the year. Advanced booking is recommended.

Agios Nikolaos beach is only accessible by boat from the port or on foot.

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