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Peloponnese - the real Greece |
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Peloponnese - Pelop's island - just the name breathes history, myth and poetry. This vast, mountainous landmass where European civilization was once born was actually not an island in historical times, but a peninsula. It became an island with the construction of the Corinth Canal. It is hard to imagine a country with more history. If you stand at the Lion Gate in Mycenae, for example, and look out to the sea a few kilometres away, it is easy to shudder, so real can the past be felt. On an April afternoon in Olympia, with the Judas trees softly covered in purple flowers, it is not difficult to let your imagination travel back in time, to ancient Olympia, where it all began, the Olympic Games that so triumphantly returned to Greece in 2004. Or an evening in Epidaurus, which is perhaps the most impressive of all the ancient sites. The ancient theatre is still a wonder of acoustics, and no one who has been there remains unaffected. During the summer festival, the old ancient plays are still performed, and visitors can see and hear Pelops' grandsons meet their fates in plays that seem both ancient and timeless at the same time.
Voidokilia beach near Pylos in the southwestern Peloponnese is Greece's most beautiful beach.
Read about Voidokilia beach here »
PELOPONNESE YESTERDAYThe second half of the 20th century, especially after the Second World War and the civil war, became a difficult time for the people living in the Peloponnese. The few tourists who came to Greece all went to Athens and the islands, the farmers fought desperately for their existence, many factories closed for good. And so it happened that many decided to emigrate. They went to Canada, to Australia and the USA: It is said that the second largest city in Greece is - Melbourne, not Thessaloniki. I don't know if that's still true. The Peloponnese became the poor corner of Greece. Nothing seemed to attract the tourists, not the magnificent landscape, not the snow-capped mountains, the green landscape, the absolutely stunning beaches, or the best climate in Greece. PELOPONNESE TODAYToday, Messinia (southwestern Peloponnese) and the Peloponnese as a whole are finally seeing a completely different development. The Peloponnese is once again becoming a place in the heart of Greece, and is also starting to be rediscovered by tourists. With direct flights to Kalamata from Sweden, England, Holland, France, Italy and Germany and many other countries, as well as a new highway directly from Athens airport to Kalamata, it is no wonder that tourists discover the Greek sun coast: the Kalamata-Koroni-Finikounda-Pylos route, where the famous Voidokilia beach is located. Also, don't miss the nice little village of Kardamili and Stoupa, located in Mani, on the other side of Koroni.
The beach in the very nice tourist resort of Stoupa.
TRAVEL TO THE PELOPONNESE
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NORTHEAST PELOPONNESEThe sights around Greece's first capital, Nafplion, are a must for anyone with even the slightest interest in history. Nafplion is a charming, and by Greek standards beautiful, city that is right for the historical sights. The most interesting of these, according to many, is the ancient theatre in Epidaurus. The ancient theatre is one of the most well-preserved ancient monuments in Greece and definitely one of the most accessible, even for those who don't know ancient history like the back of their hands. The acoustics are perhaps what amazes most people, and no one leaves this theatre unmoved. During the summer, the old classics of Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes are played. Bus loads of tourists, mostly Greeks, come on a summer evening to see and hear the actors recite their lines from the more than two thousand year old dramas, and to see their ancestors in these plays meet their tragic fates in dramas that seem both ancient and timeless at the same time.
Kardamili is my favorite village in the Peloponnese.
Delfinia beach near Kardamili.
MYCENAEAccording to legend, the bloody trilogy about King Agamemnon, his wife and children took place here. Anyone who has read the drama probably cannot fail to feel affected by the strategic location up in the mountains and the dark atmosphere. There is a lot to see here, but in contrast to Epidaurus, guided tours and reading are recommended for those who are not very familiar with ancient literature.
NORTHWEST PELOPONNESEOlympia can't be missed. A wonderful mountain road leads from Tripolis down via, among other things, Langadia to Olympia (if you come from the north). This road is one of the most beautiful Greek mountain roads, and the vertigo factor is considerable. Most beautiful in spring, when the alpine meadows are in bloom and everything is green. You can take the bus in both directions, either from Tripolis, or from Pirgos on the west coast. The tour takes several hours, so allow enough time. If you come directly from Athens, you can book a bus directly to Pirgos.
Pylos is also one of my favorites in the Peloponnese.
If you start from Kalamata, a rental car is recommended. You can combine a visit to Olympia with a wonderful tour of the Arcadian landscape. Usually, small Greek towns and villages are not very beautiful, so you get extra fond of small gems like Karitaina and Stemnitsa. A special atmosphere rests over the high-lying mountain town of Dimitsana. Here there is an atmosphere from the last century, mixed with some new buildings and one or two modern hotels. It was in this village that Mikis Theodorakis spent his years as a prisoner.
KALAVRITAThe charming little town of Kalavrita at an altitude of 700 meters is reached either by car, bus, or by the small picturesque train that starts in the village of Diakofto in the northern Peloponnese (near Aegio) and ends at the nice little station house in Kalavrita. The town is set in wonderful surroundings and is otherwise known for a memorial to a massacre during the Second World War. The mountain road to the south, towards Klitoría, is one of the highlights for those interested in nature. Don't miss the Cave Lakes.
The ski center Helmos near Kalavrita.
HELMOSAbout 10 kilometres from Kalavrita is the ski center Helmos, at an altitude of 1,800 - 2,400 meters. This is one of the best ski resorts in Greece and because the lifts go so high, the snow often stays until mid-April. If you go from Sunday to Thursday, the prices are amazingly low and the lift lines are non-existent.
The beach and the castle of Methoni, which is near Koroni.
Read about Methoni here »
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SOUTHWEST PELOPONNESEThis corner of the Peloponnese has become increasingly popular in recent years. The reason is not hard to find: it is here that you find Greece's finest climate, especially in winter. During summer the sea blows around the peninsula, and in winter it is milder here than anywhere else in Greece, along with western Crete, as can be seen from this temperature map. Many are the foreigners who have bitterly experienced how harsh the climate can be in winter in other parts of Greece. Thanks to the climate, Messinia is becoming increasingly popular for foreigners who have decided to acquire a second home by the Mediterranean. Fortunately, the area is large and has managed to preserve its typically Greek atmosphere.
KALAMATA, SPARTA AND MYSTRASThe road between Sparta and Kalamata is one of the most beautiful in Greece. This route is not for those who are very afraid of heights. Otherwise, you can enjoy sycamore forests and pine trees, flowers and rapids. The mountain massif Taigetos with its peak Profitis Elias rises majestically 2,500 meters above sea level, and is covered in snow in June many years. Sparta itself is not a sight to see, but the historic monastic city of Mystras with partially demolished churches (with wall paintings) fascinates most visitors. Mystras is just outside Sparta and can really be recommended.
The beautiful view over fine Koroni.
KORONIAt the very bottom of the south in Messinia is Koroni, a small harbour town that is very similar to the towns on the islands. Here the Greeks themselves celebrate their holidays, preferably in August, when the harbour is filled with strolling summer guests! Best beach in Koroni is Zaga beach. Don't miss Methoni and Finikounda, and neither Lampes beach.
Zaga beach in Koroni.
Read more about Zaga beach here »
Lampes beach between Pylos and Koroni.
Read about Lampes beach here »
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