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Kardamili in southwestern Peloponnese |
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Kardamili (Kardamyli) is located in the municipality of Mani,
which in turn is part of the Messenia regional unit in the southwestern
Peloponnese. The capital of Messenia is Kalamata, which has about
72,000 inhabitants. The lovely little Kardamili has only 330 inhabitants
and is located 35 km south of Kalamata. The village is located at the
foot of the mighty Mount Taygetos, whose highest peak is 2,405
meters above sea level. To compare with Sweden's highest mountain Kebnekaise,
which is 2,106 meters high.
Kardamili is located at the foot of the mighty Mount Taygetos
Kardamili was for many years the village of my dreams, just as the island of Kastellorizo was the island of my dreams. The dream of Kastellorizo was fulfilled in 2007, and not only that, Kastellorizo exceeded all my expectations. Eight years later, my dream of seeing Kardamili in reality was fulfilled. I had read a lot about the village, and I had seen lots of tempting pictures. And just like with Kastellorizo, Kardamili exceeded all my expectations, just like the whole area.
Read about my first visit to the island of my dreams Kastellorizo here »
One of the pictures that attracted me to Kardamili. Mount Taygetos in the background
The maiden voyage to Kardamili began with me flying with Aegean Airlines from Stockholm Arlanda to Kalamata. I started with five days in Pylos, which I really enjoyed. After Pylos, I spent five days in Koroni, which I also really enjoyed. From Koroni, I took a bus to Kalamata, from where I took a taxi to Kardamili. My expectations were sky high! As we rounded a bend, the taxi driver said: “Kardamili is down there. If you want, I can stop so you can take a picture.” And I wanted to. (So did the taxi driver, because he needed to pee.)
The taxi driver stopped here so that I could see Kardamili (see arrow) from a distance.
I wrote this on my blog when I arrived at Stella Rooms where I had booked an apartment: “Now I have arrived in Kardamili. I haven’t seen much yet, but what I saw from the car was absolutely amazing! Already after such a short time I can say that this is one of the best places I have stayed. Not only that: I have never been so welcomed before in my Greek life. What fantastic people!” After being offered lots of treats by Stella, I went up to my apartment, opened the balcony door and was greeted by this beautiful view. That is when my love for Kardamili began. I will come back to why I like Kardamili so much further down.
View from Stella Rooms.
The sunset seen from Stella Rooms. Koroni is located opposite. It is 90 kilometres away.
TRAVEL TO KARDAMILIIt is possible to travel on a package holiday to Kardamili from some countries. And from several countries you can also travel independently. The easiest way is to fly to Kalamata from where it is a 45 minute car, bus or taxi ride to Kardamili. The airport in Kalamata is located about 10 kilometres west of the centre of Kalamata. The airport is small but has everything you need. There are simple restaurants in the departure hall and in the arrival hall, there is a small duty-free and it is possible to rent a car.
The approach to the airport in Kalamata.
You can also fly to Athens and take a bus, or rent a car at Athens Airport and drive, to Kardamili. It is about 300 kilometres between Athens Airport and Kardamili and the drive takes about 3 ½ hours, depending on the traffic. |
TRAVEL AROUND KARDAMILI AND SURROUNDING AREAIf you are only spending time in Kardamili, you can get around on foot. If you want to see more of the surrounding area, you can rent a bicycle or an electric bicycle. With a regular bicycle, you can visit some of the beaches south of Kardamili. If you rent an e-bike, you can go even further south. Of course, it depends on how used you are to cycling and how fit you are. Bicycles and electric bicycles are available for rent at 2407m (yes, that's what they're called) in Kardamili.
Bicycles and electric bicycles are available for rent at 2407m in Kardamili.
Scooters and motorcycles are not available for rent in Kardamili, the nearest scooter rental is in Stoupa. The rental company in Stoupa is called Moto Steki and if you call or email them, they will deliver the scooter to Kardamili. I have rented there and I was very satisfied with the service. With a scooter you can get much further than with a bicycle. I have ridden a scooter all the way to Areopolis (45 kilometres) and to Diros Caves (55 kilometres).
The roads are good, traffic is fairly light and the views are fantastic. (My scooter.)
If you prefer to drive, there are car rental companies in Kardamili. If you fly to Kalamata, you can book a car in advance and pick it up at the airport when you land. Very convenient. Buses and taxis are also available, of course. The bus and taxi journey between Kardamili and Kalamata takes about 45 minutes.
Bus stop in Kardamili.
Local travel agencies in Kardamili offer a variety of interesting excursions by bus. So if you want to see even more of the Peloponnese, you have every opportunity to do so when you stay in Kardamili. Examples of day trips are: Ancient Olympia, Ancient Messini, Mycenae, Epidaurus Amphitheatre, Mystras, Kalamata, Nafplio, Sparta, Vathia, Gythio, Monemvasia, Pylos and Voidokilia beach.
Don't miss a trip to Voidokilia beach, which I think is the most beautiful beach in Greece.
Read about the fantastic Voidokilia beach here » |
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Kardamili is a small village, both in terms of population and in size. Most of life revolves around the main street and a few side streets that lead down to the sea. Getting lost is impossible, but if the impossible should happen, just look for the chimney that is visible everywhere. The chimney belongs to an old factory that made soap and also functioned as an olive mill. The factory opened in 1932 and closed in 1958. Today the factory lies in ruins. During the factory's heyday, 150 people worked here. Until 1940, the raw materials were transported to the factory by boat to the large pier, which is today a bathing jetty. See pictures of the bathing jetty further down the page.
The chimney of the old factory is visible everywhere.
The ruins of the factory that made soap and also served as an olive mill.
This is where the main street in Kardamili begins if you come from Kalamata.
The very pleasant main street in Kardamili.
One of the few side streets that lead down to the sea. |
BEACHES IN KARDAMILIThere are two beaches in Kardamili, the most popular and longest beach is Ritsa beach which is located at the beginning of the village. The beach is about 500 metres long and consists of pebbles. Sunbeds and umbrellas are available for rent. There is plenty of space on the beach even during high season. Along the road above Ritsa beach there are a few tavernas.
Ritsa beach in Kardamili.
Ritsa beach a little further on.
Along the road above Ritsa beach are a few tavernas. |
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About the middle of Kardamili there is a tiny pebble beach. The beach is so small that it can only accommodate a few people. Sunbeds and umbrellas are also available for rent here. What I like about this mini beach is that there is a bathing jetty with bathing ladders. Perfect for people like me who prefer to dive or jump into the water.
The small beach, which I call Kardamili beach, and the bathing jetty.
Ritsa beach seen from Kardamili beach.
Many people, including myself, however, choose to swim from the large jetty which is located at the end of Kardamili. There are several bathing ladders here so it is easy to get in and out. Some bring beach chairs and spend whole days here. An extra plus is that it is within walking distance to several tavernas.
The large pier where the raw materials for the old soap factory came by boat.
The bathing jetty with bathing ladders and snorkel-friendly water.
From the large bathing jetty, it is crawling distance to several tavernas.
If you get tired of the beaches and the bathing jetties in Kardamili, it is close to the beaches of Kalamitsi, Foneas and Delfinia.
Read about Kalamitsi beach, Foneas beach and Delfinia beach here » |
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Kardamili is an old village with a very interesting history. The village is already mentioned in the Iliad as one of the cities Agamemnon offered to Achilles to get him to return to the battlefield of Troy. A meeting in 1819 in Kardamili between three of Mani's enemy clan leaders - Mourtzinos, Mavromichalis and Grigorakis - had a very important significance for the Greek War of Independence in 1821, which later resulted in the end of the Ottoman occupation of Greece. The Mourtzinos clan then lived in what is now called Old Kardamili, and is well worth a visit.
Old Kardamili is located by the red arrow, and new Kardamili to the left.
So why do I like Kardamili so much? Well, there are many reasons why I like the small village so much. One reason is that Kardamili is so incredibly beautiful. If you drive a little bit above the village and look down over the green sea of olive trees (Kalamata of course) merging with the vast blue sea, it is hard not to be impressed. And when you turn around and see the mighty Mount Taygetos, which is higher than Sweden's highest mountain Kebnekaise, it's easy to be awestruck.
Isn't it beautiful!
The small island on the left in the picture is called Meropi and is located about 250 metres from the fishing harbour in Kardamili. It is an uninhabited island with some buildings that date back to the end of the 18th century. There is a church called Agios Nikolaos and the ruins of a large two-story building as well as the remains of defensive walls. Meropi was used as the first line of defence against pirates when they were at their worst in the Mediterranean. If you walk a little south of the fishing harbour, there is only 90 metres between the mainland and Meropi. Swimming distance, in other words. :-)
The fishing harbour in Kardamili where Staffan Stolpe lived for three years. Read more about it below.
Above the fishing harbour is Dioskouri Taverna.
Fishing boats in Kardamili's harbour. |
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But it can't just be that Kardamili is so beautiful that I am so fond of the village? Oh no, there are many more reasons. One is that the village is so small and is so easy to get to know. Another reason is the special architecture (which appeals to me a lot) with all the beautiful stone houses with red roofs. The village has many good restaurants and tavernas serving delicious Greek food. There are also several cosy cafes and bars here. And if you like jazz, you've come to the right place. The Kardamili International Jazz Festival is held in October every year. Read more on their website. Perhaps the best thing about Kardamili is that tourism is so low-key.
A cosy café and bar along the main street.
Another cosy café and bar along the main street.
And a third cosy café and bar along the main street. Hard to choose, in other words. |
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Choosing a taverna is not easy. All the ones I have eaten at have been good. However, two stand out for me, and they are Lela’s Taverna and Kiki’s Taverna. The former for the location and history behind the taverna, and the latter for the fantastic food. Lela’s Taverna also has good food, but Kiki’s Taverna is a cut above.
Lela's Taverna in Kardamili.
Lela’s Taverna was opened in 1983 by Lela Giannakeas together with her two sons, Giorgos and Stavros. The restaurant is located in a house by the sea next to the old olive oil and soap factory. The location offers a beautiful sunset with a breathtaking view of Kardamili's harbour and the island of Meropi. Lela was for several years the cook and housekeeper in Joan & Patrick Leigh Fermor’s house in Kalamitsi. I will return to Patrick Leigh Fermor further down.
Perhaps the best thing about Lela’s Taverna is the location right by the sea. The sunset is insanely beautiful.
Kiki’s Taverna is a family-run restaurant that serves traditional homemade Greek food of very high quality. The atmosphere is peaceful and the staff is absolutely fantastic. You feel at home here from the first moment. There is a menu, but they often prepare dishes of the day, so it is better to ask what dishes they recommend. Here I have eaten the best stifado ever in Greece. Kiki's Taverna is located on a side street and can be difficult to find. Ask around if you can't find it.
Kiki’s Taverna is my favourite in Kardamili.
At Kiki’s Taverna I have eaten the best stifado ever in Greece. |
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Another great thing about Kardamili is that it is an incredibly good base for exploring this part of the Peloponnese. There is plenty to see and do in the surrounding area: lovely beaches, nice villages and interesting sights. Distances to some of the nicest beaches, villages and sights south of Kardamili. Kalamitsi: 1 kilometre, Foneas: 4 kilometres, Delfinia: 5 kilometres, Kalogria and Stoupa: 8 kilometres, Agios Nikolas: 10 kilometres, Trachida: 18 kilometres, Neo Itilo: 39 kilometres, Areopoli: 45 kilometres and Drios cave: 55 kilometres. It is impossible to write about Kardamili without mentioning the Swedish author Staffan Stolpe, and also the British author Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor. Staffan Stolpe (born 1943) is one of my absolute favourites when it comes to authors who write books about Greece in Swedish. Some of the books have been translated into other languages, including English, French and German. Staffan Stolpe was partly based in Kardamili in the Peloponnese and spent a lot of time there for several decades, using the village and its surroundings as both a source of inspiration and setting in his books.
The house Staffan Stolpe lived in is on the left in the picture.
Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor was an adventurer, writer and soldier — often described as one of the most colourful travel authors of the 20th century. His life is almost as legendary as his books. His efforts in Crete during World War II meant a lot to the liberation of Crete. After the war, Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor spent a lot of time in Greece, especially in Kardamili and Kalamitsi, where he and his wife Joan had a house.
Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor’s house is under the red arrow.
HOTELS IN KARDAMILIThe selection of hotels and pensions is extensive. Most are small and family-run. There are no large hotels here and that is a relief. My favourite pension is Stella Rooms, and that is largely due to the hospitality your are offered. I have been travelling in Greece since 1979, and I have never experienced such generosity as at Stella. I would like to stay at Trisilio someday, but then you would need a car. Below are suggestions for good hotels in Kardamili.
Book Maistros Kardamyli Apartments here »Book Vardia Hotel here »Book Kalamitsi Hotel here »Book Stella Rooms here »Book Trisilio here »Book other hotels in Kardamili here »
Read more about Peloponnese here » |
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