Walk between the beaches of southwest Naxos

I just have to write a few lines about the weather. Not to make you jealous but to make you aware of how good the weather can be this late in the year. Maybe it's time to start travelling to Greece later in the year?

During our four weeks in Crete, we had sun almost every day, not only that, it was usually very warm and almost always windless. Several Cretans we spoke to assured us that it was normal for the time of year. They were amazed that so few tourists visited Crete during the winter, the weather is usually good even then. It's probably not normal, but it's surly warm. If we can, we'll go back to Crete in October next year too.

Speaking of weather, it was so hot on the balcony this morning that I had to sit inside and eat breakfast. Camilla, however, persevered and enjoyed the view and yogurt with fruit.

This day is one of the many highlights of our trip. Not that much happened, quite the opposite, we did almost nothing. The fact that it still turned out to be a memorable day is due to the silence that now prevails on Naxos. It is unreal quiet here, and so calm that we whisper to each other. We love it!

We had planned to take the bus to Plaka beach and then walk all the way home to Naxos Town. The way the weather is right now, we will probably have a swim or two along the way. (We have never swum in Greece in November.) We were really looking forward to seeing what the beaches of Plaka, Maragas, Agia Anna, Agios Prokopios and Agios Georgios look like in the off-season. Now there were no buses to Plaka, it turned out, so we took a taxi instead. The taxi ride went through empty and deserted tourist resorts. Ghost towns. Almost creepy.

We had the long Plaka beach all to ourselves. Not a single person was in sight.

We had decided to take a swim in the sea regardless of the temperature. Swimming in Greece in November was something we did not want to miss. Of course, I hesitated, being the bath coward that I am, but I threw myself into the water anyway. Cold? No, not really. It was probably twenty degrees.

Both Camilla and I went swimming, and it was absolutely fantastic!

After this heroic effort, we lay down to dry off and read. And look. Look to the right: not a single person. Look to the left: not there either. It felt strange to be lying on this extremely long beach and being completely alone. All the tavernas and all the pensions had closed for the season. When we had dried off, read and marvelled, we walked barefoot in the water towards the town. Agia Anna was as empty and deserted as Plaka. Gorgona was open, everything else was closed.

Agia Anna was just like Plaka beach, empty and deserted and everything was closed.

On Agios Prokopios beach we saw some abandoned sun beds, but no people.

Agios Prokopios was just as evacuated. Understandably. The long sandy beach breathed solitude. As usual, Taverna Fotis was still open so we could get some food in our stomachs. We ate Greek salad (of course) and gopes (fish). Fotis says he's open until November. I hope that's true, otherwise lunches will be difficult.

Greek salad, gopes, bread and two cold beers at Taverna Fotis in Agios Prokopios.

Gopes is an incredibly tasty fish, but it should be fresh. Best eaten with your fingers.

This old woman was one of the few people we saw that day.

Agios Prokopios is bustling with life during the summer. Not now. Everything, and I really mean everything, was closed. The only living creatures we saw were a few poor stray cats. How will they survive the winter?

Agios Prokopios in November. Everything is closed.

We saw more birds than people during the walk. Like this little egret.

We walked on and finally arrived at Agios Georgios beach. Here there was more life and movement. Not that it was teeming with people, but at least we saw people and not just cats. Four people were lying "sunbathing" (it was cloudy) and two were swimming, or trying to swim, they didn't dare to take a dip. Cowards, we thought, who had just been swimming. :-)

At least on Agios Georgios beach we saw some people.

On the way home we passed Restaurant Scirocco which of course had closed.

When we got back to Naxos Town, an almost empty Express Skopelitis left the port with destination Amorgos. We were not tempted. It took almost four hours to walk from Plaka to Naxos Town, lunch included. We bought new Teva sandals in one of the few open shops. Tomorrow the old and smelly Tevas will be thrown out.

It was as deserted in Naxos Town as on the beaches.

Once home, we sat on the balcony, played tavli and enjoyed the silence and the beautiful song of a robin that often sits on an electric wire a few meters from us. We had dinner at Metaxi Mas in Naxos old town, again. Fantastic food at very low prices. That no one has told us about that taverna before. Is it too good?

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