Heronissos on Sifnos

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The 10 kilometres long road to Heronissos begins in Artemonas, above Apollonia. About 10 minutes from Artemonas, you can stop at one of my favourite ceramists and study how he works and maybe buy some of his ceramics.

For not so long ago, Heronissos (Cheronissos) was an isolated village that was reached only by boat. The isolation was broken when a big yellow bulldozer bulldozed a dirt road from Artemonas to Heronissos. Today, the road is paved with asphalt and is a pleasure to drive on. Before the road was built, Heronissos was one of the few completely inaccessible villages in the Cyclades.

The village lies strategically protected from the elements in a fjord-like bay, as far north as you can get on Sifnos. It is an absolutely wonderful fishing village where the pulse is ticking slowly and eyes may enjoy a view so beautiful that it is suspiciously alike a decor. Here are three tavernas, one mini market and a few hotels and pensions. If you arrive here during off-season, you will meet more ducks than people. Many fishing boats have Heronissos as a base, thanks to the sheltered position. Take the opportunity to eat fresh fish while you're here.

The small beach is not the best one on Sifnos, but after a long lunch at one of the beach tavernas it is perfect for a swim.

Heronissos. Sifnos.

The fjord-like bay of Heronissos.

Heronissos beach.

Heronissos. The small beach is visible in the center of the photo.

Heronissos' biggest attraction is the subtle potter Kostas Depastas that create traditional pottery without knick-knacks. He is called the Maestro for his ingenuity. Some of what he creates have a hidden function that is not entirely easy to figure out: mugs that you can not drink out of, olive oil cans that can not be filled, water jugs that can not be emptied out, and so on.

Last time I was there, he showed me a new mug (I have other mugs since previous visits) that could not be drunken out of. No matter how I thought and tried, I could not think of how to get the water in the mouth instead of on the clothes. And Maestro, he just laughed. He also showed a "spittoon" that he filled halfway with water, nothing happened. Then he filled it with water to the brim and then the water ran out. All the water! He explained the mystery after a while. Home we went with happy faces and a beautiful oil lamp. A must when you visit Sifnos, both Heronissos and the ceramist Maestro.

Very few are staying overnight in Heronissos
and therefore the selection is poor. If I were not so childishly charmed by Faros, I would like to stay a few nights here. Probably I had chosen to stay at Klados Studios which looks absolutely fantastic.

At the ceramic artist Kostas Depastas.

At the ceramic artist Kostas Depastas.

Tavernas in Hersonissos

Tavernas in Hersonissos. Here you can spend a lot time and enjoying the tranquility and good food.

© 2007-2018 | Janni Eklund | Kalispera and Kalimera.