Spilia in Leros

Spilia lies between Panteli and Vromolithos. The nicest way to approach the village is to go on foot along a footpath that starts at the Castelo Beach Hotel in Panteli. The hotel is located were the beach starts and can not be missed. (Hotel Castelo Beach also offers a cafe and a taverna with a nice view.)

Three villages in the same picture: Panteli, Spilia in the middle and Vromolithos on the far left.

Spilia seen from the beach in Vromolithos.

Spilia seen from Panteli.

From the path up to Spilia, it is wonderful views out over the sea. The path ends where Leros best taverna is located. The taverna is named Dimitris "O Karaflas" and is a must when are on Leros. You do not go here just for the fantastic food, the superb views and the nice staff. The highly sympathetic owner - who is also the chef - Dimitris, also conduce to create Leros' best restaurant. The menu is not big, but everything on it is super good, and it is good prices as well.

Ouzeria Dimitris O Karaflas in Spilia.

"O Karaflas" means the bald Greek. As you understand, the owner Dimitris is quite thin-haired. One of the menu's specialties is bald meatballs, or as it says on the menu: "Karafla balls in tomato and ouzo sauce". He has humor, Dimitris. :-)

Chef Dimitris at "Dimitris O Karaflas".

Dimitris and his humorous father in 2006.

Decorative onions outside Dimitris O Karaflas.

Grilled Manouri Cheese is one of the dishes at Ouzeria Dimitris O Karaflas.

Greek goat cheese served with caramelized balsamic vinegar and ouzo marinated raisins. So good!

Apart from Dimitris' restaurant there is not much to see or do in Spilia, which consists mostly of dwelling-houses. Certainly, Villa Kolkis - the house of the writer Göran Schildt - lies in the village, but it is not open to the public.

Villa Kolkis seen from Dimitris O Karaflas.

Göran Schildt (1917-2009) is best known for his travelogues with the sailboat Daphne, which he sailed with for 38 years. He has written a number of books from his sailings. My favourites are I Odysseus kölvatten (1951), Ikaros hav (1957) och Dianas ö (1976), the latter being about Leros. Göran Schildt came with his wife Christine to Leros in 1965 with their sailboat Daphne. They immediately fell for the island and bought a house called Villa Kolkis in the village of Spilia. They lived here for about seven months of the year until Göran's death in 2009. Villa Kolkis remains and is owned by Christine Schildt.

Villa Kolkis is today located on Göran Schildt Street.

When the book Dianas ö came out, Göran was not highly regarded by some on Leros. Some Greeks considered themselves insulted, and various threats were made to the Schildt couple. It was so serious that they considered selling the house and leaving the island. Today, nobody on Leros thinks badly of Göran Schildt. For example, he was named an honorary citizen in 1997. The street leading up to Villa Kolkis is now called Göran Schildts street. Since 2010, an annual regatta has been organized in his honour.

WHAT YOU MUST NOT MISS WHEN YOU ARE IN THE AREA

Do not miss Panteli, which you can read about here »

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