The uninhabited village Mikro Chorio on Tilos

A few kilometres north of Livadia lies the abandoned and fascinating village of Mikro Chorio. As far as in the 1950s, Mikro Chorio was like any Greek village: one went to the church on Sundays, old men sat in cafes and children played in the alleys. But the water in the wells dried up and the inhabitants abandoned their houses and moved to Megalo Chorio or Livadia.

Before the Second World War, there lived 1,750 people in Mikro Chorio. There were about 250 children, and three schools. In 1962 there lived 32 people here, in 1965 here were only 1 poor inhabitant left.

Mikro Chorio seen from the road leading to the village.

Mikro Chorio seen from the road between Livadia and Megalo Chorio.

Today, the goats have taken over the village. They are everywhere. The more than 200 houses that remain are in pretty good repair, only a few are totally devastated. Almost all houses have no roof. The villagers brought their roofs (wood was scarce even then) when they moved and used them when they built their new houses.

Today, goats have taken over Mikro Chorio.

The goats are extremely curious and can be found everywhere.

The church has been renovated to its original repair and some buildings have been renovated in recent years. Who knows, in the future Mikro Chorio maybe inhabited again.

Den renoverade kyrkan i Mikro Chorio.

Above the renovated church is a church that is at least as interesting as the large church. It is called Timia Zoni and dates from 1787. Outside Timia Zoni is the Mikro Chorio cemetery, and it really makes me think. The tombs are different from any other tombs I have seen in Greece. One of the graves is outside the entrance to Timia Zoni church, and I imagine a priest is buried there because it is in such good condition.

Outside the entrance to Timia Zoni church there is a grave where a priest may lie.

The cemetery outside the Timia Zoni church.

The tombs are different from any other tombs I have seen in Greece.

It is fascinating to wander around in the deserted village and fantasize about how life once took form. How did it look here? Did people sit at that old taverna? Was it a queue outside the church? Did children play in the alleys on the hill? It's really a strange feeling to walk around in a deserted village.

The main street in Mikro Chorio must have been full of life once upon a time.

Inside one of the ruined houses.

Are those old taverna signs on the ceiling? Who knows?

It really is a strange feeling to wander around a completely deserted village.

Above the village is an old Kastro (castle/fortress) where the villagers hid from pirates.

Many of the houses in Mikro Chorio have their owners' names written on the walls.

If you are a bird watcher, I can recommend you to visit Mikro Chorio and the surroundings nearby. We have seen many exciting birds here, including Bonelli's Eagle, Long-legged Buzzard and many Eleonora's falcons. Go here early in the morning when there are the most birds in motion. Feel free to bring your breakfast and eat it here, there is no better start to the day.

Bird watching in Mikro Chorio.

Bird watching outside Mikro Chorio.

For a short period during high season the village comes alive thanks to Mikro Chorio Music Bar. Two guys from the island have been running this popular music bar in one of the old houses for a few years now, on the terrace you can drink drinks and look out over the abandoned village, the night-black landscape and the starry sky. Free bus to and from Mikro Chorio departs from Eleni Minimarket near the police station in Livadia. The buses start running around 23.00 and run until early morning.

Mikro Chorio Music Bar opens at 23.00 and closes early in the morning.

The church in Mikro Chorio and Mikro Chorio Music Bar.

The nicest way to get to Mikro Chorio is to hike from Livadia. The path is well-marked and it is impossible to get lost. Of course, you can also drive a car and moped. A clearly more difficult, but oh so cool, way to get to Mikro Chorio is to hike to Lethra beach and then follow the stream gorge up to the village.

The sign from the road between Livadia and Megalo Chorio points to Mikro Chorio.

View from Mikro Chorio over the bay where Lethra beach is located

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