Emporio & Kastelli in Santorini

Emborio, 12 kilometres south of Fira, is with its almost 1,950 inhabitants the largest village in Santorini and one of the few villages that are completely unaffected by tourism. Emborio is a living Greek village regardless of the season, here are several kafenións, schools, ordinary shops for the Greeks themselves, all the signs are in Greek and so on.

Emporio is the largest village on Santorini. Spectacular Kastelli on the left in picture.

Unfortunately, few tourists know about Emporio, maybe it's because the village is located along the road to Perissa and Perivolos, and maybe a swim in the sea is more tempting than to visit Emporio.

Here begin the narrow alleys that lead to Kastelli.

Besides that Emborio is a non-touristy oasis, there are a few interesting sights. In the narrow ancient alleys that lead up to the top of the village it is easy to get lost. Many of the buildings are in ruins, some are being renovated. In one of the alleys lies a small kafenion with fine furnishings where you can eat lunch or have something to drink. It is actually one of the cutest kafenións that I have seen, five tables outside and two inside.

Café and taverna in Emporio.

When you have reached the top of Emborio you come to Kastelli, a village in the village, which is accessed via two arched entrances, one entrance from each side. Inside the little Castelli, minimal alleys winds around ancient houses with beautiful steps that stir the imagination. How was life like when Kastelli was full of a bustling life?

Castelli above Emborio.

I know a little about what it was like to live in Kastelli because my friend Julia from Honeymoon Beach Hotel grew up in Kastelli. Julia has guided us around several times and told us about bygone times, and those were tough times. Julia lived with her mother, father and six sisters in a house by the Metamorfosi Sotiros church. (Picture of the church can be found further down.)

Julia from Honeymoon Beach Hotel at one of the entrances to Kastelli.

Kastelli looks like a fortress, and that's exactly what Kastelli was.

Kastelli has in recent years attracted much attention of wealthy Greeks and tourists, many houses have been bought up and the new owners have started renovating the houses. A farmland extends below Kastelli. When you get tired of all the tourism, I can recommend a hike behind Kastelli and Emborio, just after a few metres you will believe that you are on a completely different island.

The rural quarters outside Kastelli.

View of the small farming community below Kastelli.

Narrow alleys in Kastelli above Emporio.

In addition to being a tourist-free oasis, Kastelli is also a paradise for photographers. You don't even have to think about what to photograph, just take pictures and look happy, all the pictures will turn out well, as the pictures below are good examples of. There are also several very beautiful and photogenic churches in Kastelli.