Kalamos in Greece

Kalamos is located in the Ionian Sea, southeast of Lefkada and close to the Greek mainland. Its nearest neighbor is the small island of Kastos. Kalamos has a population of 342 and covers an area of approximately 25 km²; it is about 12 kilometers long and very mountainous. Its highest peak, Vouni, rises 745 meters above sea level. Perhaps the island's most distinctive feature is its lush greenery; large areas are covered in pine forests, and in many places, the vegetation extends almost all the way down to the sea. The coastline consists largely of cliffs, small coves, and pebble beaches with clear water.

One of many small, beautiful beaches on Kalamos.

My visit to Kalamos was brief. We arrived on a day trip by boat from Lefkas. During the boat ride, we stopped at a few small beaches for a swim, and spent the rest of the time in the village of Kalamos. Consequently, I only saw a small part of the island and cannot speak about Kalamos in the same way I can about islands where I have lived and traveled extensively. Yet, the little I did see left me wanting more. Kalamos felt like one of those small Greek islands that still exists largely off the beaten path of mass tourism.

TRAVEL TO KALAMOS

We took an excursion boat from Lefkas to Kalamos. It is a pleasant way to get a first impression of the island, especially since you can also make swimming stops along the coast. Excursion boats in the area often combine a visit to Kalamos with other nearby small islands, such as Kastos. If you wish to stay on Kalamos for a few days, the usual route is to travel to Mytikas on the Greek mainland; from there, a ferry crosses to Kalamos. The crossing is short, as the island lies just off the mainland coast. The nearest airport is Aktion, near Preveza; from there, you can continue by road to Mytikas and then take a boat to Kalamos.

Ferry timetable for Kalamos »

We traveled to Kalamos on the M/S Christina, which departs from Nidri on Lefkas.

GETTING AROUND ON KALAMOS

Since I was only visiting Kalamos for the day, I didn't travel around the island. We arrived by boat at Kalamos village and stayed there for most of the visit. Kalamos is a very mountainous island with a limited road network; one road connects Kalamos village with Episkopi in the north, and there are also smaller roads and paths leading to other parts of the island.

A boat is the easiest way to reach many of the small beaches, something we discovered ourselves during our excursion, when we made swimming stops along the coast. Viewing the island from the water also allows Kalamos’s lush, mountainous landscape to truly shine. In other words, this isn't an island where you need to rent a car and rush around ticking off sights; your own two feet and a boat will take you a long way.

A boat is the easiest way to reach several of the small beaches.

VILLAGES ON KALAMOS

Kalamos village is the island's largest settlement. The village is situated by a sheltered harbor, with houses extending up the hillside behind the waterfront. The harbor is the natural hub of the village; fishing boats lie side by side with sailboats and other pleasure craft, and tavernas and cafés line the waterfront.

The village of Kalamos seen from the sea.

Everyday Greek life dominates on Kalamos.

Café and taverna in the harbor.

Kalamos is popular among sailors, so during the summer, the harbor can be far livelier than the island’s small size might suggest. We spent most of our visit in the village of Kalamos, and that is where I formed my primary impression of the island. It is certainly not a major tourist resort; the village is small, and the focus is on the harbor, the boats, the tavernas, and everyday life.

One of the few alleys in the village of Kalamos.

Episkopi, the second inhabited settlement on Kalamos, is located in the northern part of the island. It is significantly smaller than the village of Kalamos and is situated by a small harbor area facing the Greek mainland. On the other side of the island lies Porto Leone, also known as Kefali. It was once an inhabited settlement but was abandoned following the major earthquake that struck the Ionian Islands in 1953. The village remains abandoned, although the church has been preserved.

BEACHES ON KALAMOS

During our boat trip, we made swimming stops at a few small beaches on Kalamos. What I remember best is the clear water and the surrounding greenery. The pine trees and steep slopes provide a completely different setting for the beaches compared to the more barren islands of the Cyclades, for instance. The beaches on Kalamos are generally small and consist mainly of pebbles. Many are quite secluded, and several are most easily reached from the sea.

Near the village of Kalamos, you will find beaches such as Myrtia and Asprogiali. Asprogiali is located a few kilometers northeast of the village and is most easily reached from the sea. The beach is fringed by dense pine forest and features light-colored pebbles and incredibly clear water. South of the village lie Agrapidia, Pefkoi, and Kefali, while beaches such as Kedros, Alexaki, Kipoi, and Trachilos are situated on the island's western side. I did not visit any of these beaches by land, so I cannot say which one is the best. For me, the small coves we visited by excursion boat became part of the Kalamos experience itself. That is also likely how I would prefer to discover more of the island's beaches if I were to return: from the sea.

Asprogiali Beach is most easily reached by boat.

SIGHTS ON KALAMOS

Kalamos is not an island filled with major tourist attractions; rather, it is the nature, the mountains, forests, and sea, that is worth seeing. Near Episkopi lie the ruins of Kastromonastiro, also known as the Castle of Kalamos. Parts of the high stone walls and arches are among the remains of the structure. The site has a long history, and the area around the strait between Kalamos and the mainland held strategic importance as far back as antiquity and Roman times.

Another interesting spot is the abandoned village of Porto Leone. The village was deserted following the 1953 earthquake, and today only the ruins of houses and other buildings remain. The church, however, is still standing and continues to be maintained. I didn't visit either Kastromonastiro or Porto Leone during our day trip, so they will have to go on the list should I ever return to Kalamos. For me, the main attraction was the island itself and its magnificent waters. Kalamos is impressive even when viewed from the sea, with its high mountains and dense green forests.

HIKING ON KALAMOS

I didn’t go hiking on Kalamos, so I have no personal experiences to share. However, the island looks undeniably appealing to anyone who enjoys hiking. Kalamos is mountainous, featuring old paths and minor roads that wind through pine forests, olive groves, and former farmlands.

If I return to Kalamos, I would love to stay for a few days and go hiking.

One of the most natural walks follows the road between the village of Kalamos and Episkopi. The road winds through a beautiful, green landscape and is considered ideal for anyone wishing to explore the island on foot. It is also possible to hike south from Kalamos village towards Agrapidia and onwards to other parts of the island. However, the terrain is hilly, and the distances can easily prove more strenuous than they appear on the map. An advantage of Kalamos over many other Greek islands is the abundance of pine forests, which provide plenty of shade. If I were to return to Kalamos, I would love to stay for a few days and go hiking; it would be interesting to see if the island is as beautiful from the land as it is from the sea.

ACCOMMODATION ON KALAMOS

I have never stayed on Kalamos, as my only visit was a day trip from Lefkas. There is accommodation available on the island, though the selection is naturally limited compared to Lefkas and other major tourist islands. It consists mainly of small guesthouses, studios, and apartments in and around the village of Kalamos and Agrapidia.

Personally, I think Kalamos would be well worth a stay of at least a couple of nights. The day trip gave me only a brief glimpse of the island. Once the excursion boats have departed and evening falls over the small harbor, Kalamos must be a completely different place. That is something I would love to experience someday. One guesthouse that looks very appealing is Geamare Studios.

Book Geamare Studios here »

The excursion boat M/S Christina, departing from Nidri on Lefkas.