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Chora in Ios |
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Chora is one of the most picturesque villages in the Greek archipelago. You will love the village, I promise. Chora is more precisely divided into two villages, one old and one new part. They are climbing on two hillsides opposite each other, separated by a festival area, a parking lot and a basketball court.
When I came to Ios the first time in the early eighties, there were only a few buildings opposite the old Chora. Today is the hillside fully developed with hotels, pensions, shops, travel agencies and some tavernas. One example is Seven Eleven Restaurant which is a popular meeting place for the younger crowds. (Dimitris, who owns the restaurant, also owns the fast-food place Porky's in "Old" Chora.)
View of the old part of Chora.
Chora in 1975.
View of the new part of Chora as seen from "The Top".
This sign welcomed anyone traveling to Ios in the 1980s. |
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One of the few old buildings in this part of Chora is the building where the Archaeological Museum is. The museum is well worth a visit. The mayor of the island has his office in the same building. The beautiful building was multifunctional in the eighties: here was the island's police station, the school, the post office and the hospital.
Chora seen from the windmills above the village.
As you can see, it's the "Old" Chora that is one of the most beautiful villages in the archipelago. It will charm everyone with its whitewashed buildings in the narrow labyrinthine alleys that meandering all the way up to the top of the village. The alleys are in some places so narrow that you can touch the houses on both sides. When strolling around during the evening in some parts of the village, you get the feeling of being indoors, there is so little space in the alleys.
One of many narrow alleys in Chora.
The village is built like a labyrinth and it takes a long time before one learn how to find the right way. To not get lost, is a feat. The innermost parts of the village are free of motor traffic, transports are done by donkeys or, where it is possible, with small motorized cargo trikes. You can compare Chora with Mykonos Town, the differences between the villages are that Chora on Ios climbs a hillside, while Chora on Mykonos is flat as a pancake, and there is still a Greek everyday life in Chora on Ios. Mainly in the upper parts of the village. But just like on Mykonos, large parts of Chora are occupied by restaurants, bars, discos and boutiques.
When you stroll around Chora in the evening, you get the feeling of being indoors.
Chora in the evening. |
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The narrow main street meander through the village, it starts in the square right next to the great cathedral and ends at the impressive windmills. About in the middle of the main street lies Ios' great meeting place: The Square. Everyone passes The Square sometime during the day. It's more than crowded during high season, it is so crowded that sometimes it's not even possible to pass.
The first of three squares along the main street in Chora.
There are four bars in the square, if you like to people-watch, it is here you should have a drink or a cup of coffee. During the off season, the Greek old men take back their square and then you get a clue about how life was in the square before the tourists took over. Pictures of how it looked on the second square in the 1980s can be found further down.
Square number two in Chora is simply called The Square.
The Square from the other side.
The third square is the least exploited. |
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There is one thing I miss in Chora, I would like more eateries with outdoor seating. The fact that many restaurants only have tables inside have a natural explanation: there is simply no room in the narrow alleys.
One of the few restaurants in Chora that has outdoor seating.
Some of the exceptions is The Mills. I think that The Mills is one of the best tavernas on Ios. Here you can browse through the Greek cuisine at its best. It is not just the food, the restaurant lies under the magnificent windmills at the other side of Chora, which makes the dinner even more enjoyable. The nice owner Kyriakos is also one of the reasons to go here.
Restaurant The Mills at the windmills in Chora.
My absolute favourite restaurant on Ios is Ouzeri Katogi. The food is delicious and really worth its price. To get there you start from "The Square" and follow the main street until you see steps leading down to the right (the alley turns all at once to the left), here it is. Do not miss eating at Ouzeri Katogi.
Ouzeri Katogi is my favourite in Chora.
Katogi has tables both outside and inside. |
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As you understand, you must not miss eating at Ouzeri Katogi. To get there, start from "The Square" and walk along the main street until you see a flight of stairs down to the right (the alley turns sharply left), there it is. In the alley on the right was Ios best bar, Homers Cave, (rest in peace) once upon a time. Another good tavern is The Nest. Unfortunately they only have tables inside, but the good food makes up for it. The Nest is located in a narrow alley (what else!) not far from Katogi.
Restaurant The Nest is located in a narrow alley not far from Katogi.
The bars then? I leave it to you to find them, it will not be difficult, they are everywhere. Once in the 1980s, I amused myself by counting bars, pubs and discos, and found out that there were 68. It is not that many today.
One of many cozy alleys with bars in Chora.
There are a lot of bars along the main street in Chora.
One of Ios' main attractions is the so-called "The Top", Chora's highest spot. It's not easy to find the way, the easiest way is to start on one of the three squares in the village and then walk up, up, up. On the way up you pass the older parts of Chora, and you get a huge dose of the town's splendour.
When you come to an archway where you see a palm tree, you will soon be at the "top".
Sooner or later you get to an arch where you see a palm tree in front of you, then you're almost there. Continue through the arch (admire the beautiful church of Panagia Premiotissa) and continue uphill past two chapels and then climb up to the third and last chapel. Now you are at "The Top". The reward is a fabulous view of Chora, Ormos, the beautiful scenery, the neighbouring island of Sikinos, as well as over the sea. Watching the sunset from here is among the most amazing things you can imagine.
If you are interested in beautiful churches, you will love Chora.
More pictures of the churches in Chora can be found here » |
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NOW IT'S GOING TO BE NOSTALGIA WITH OLD PHOTOS FROM CHORA
The main street in Chora in 1975. This is what many old men looked like when I started traveling to Ios.
The Square in Chora 1982.
Same square, same year in the evening.
I'm sitting in the middle and having an insane amount of fun at The Square.
Chora in one direction in 1985.
Chora the other way in 1985.
Party in one of the smaller squares in Chora in 1986.
Discoteque Fanari in Chora was very popular during the 1980s.
Frankies Bar at The Square 1984.
Party at Homers Cave 1985. Me on the left and owner Lakkis on the right. |
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