Livadi beach on Astypalea

Livadi beach (also known as Livadia) is the most popular beach on Astypalea. It lies in a sheltered bay a few kilometres from Chora. The beach is fairly long and wide, with greyish sand, gravel and small pebbles. The water is crystal clear, and from the beach you have a fantastic view of Chora and the impressive Kastro castle perched high above the sea.

What makes Livadi a little special is the incredibly barren landscape surrounding it. The mountains are almost completely bare, and in some places the scenery looks more like a desert than a Greek island. It's hard to imagine that anything could grow here at all. And yet, just behind the beach, there is a little green oasis with trees and gardens where citrus fruits and grapes are grown. The contrast between the blue sea, the whitewashed houses, the narrow strip of greenery along the beach and the sun-scorched mountains is truly beautiful.

Livadi beach in one direction.

Livadi is one of the best-equipped beaches on Astypalea. There are sunbeds and umbrellas for rent, but also plenty of room for those who prefer to spread out their own towels. Tamarisk trees grow along the beach, providing welcome shade during the hottest hours of the day.

Behind the beach lies the small village of Livadi, with hotels, guesthouses, tavernas, cafés and a few small shops. This makes it an easy place to spend an entire day. When you've had enough swimming, you can simply sit down at a taverna for lunch before heading back to the beach for another dip.

Livadi beach overlooking the beautiful bay, with Chora and Kastro in the distance.

One of the great advantages of Livadi is its proximity to Chora. You can walk between the two villages, but bear in mind that the walk back from the beach is uphill. It might not seem too bad in the morning, but after a long day at the beach, those hills can certainly make themselves felt in your legs. :-)

Agios Vasilios beach – the Little Neighbouring beach

If you continue past Livadi, you will reach the small beach of Agios Vasilios, tucked away in its own little bay just beyond the western end of Livadi beach. Agios Vasilios is considerably smaller than Livadi and consists mainly of gravel and pebbles. The beach lies beneath steep, barren hillsides and is surrounded by the same almost desert-like landscape that characterises much of Astypalea.

Agios Vasilios beach, just beyond Livadi beach.

The water is exceptionally clear, and the beach is a pleasant alternative for anyone looking for somewhere a little quieter than Livadi. There are also a few tamarisk trees providing shade. Above the beach, several white houses cling to the hillside. The combination of whitewashed buildings, the blue sea and the almost completely bare mountains is very typical of Astypalea.

A 1,500-Year-Old Mosaic Floor Between the beaches

On the hill between Livadi and Agios Vasilios lies something that many beachgoers probably miss: the remains of an early Christian basilica, Agios Vasilios, with a remarkable ancient mosaic floor. The basilica was built during the 5th or 6th century AD and was a three-aisled church. This means that the interior was divided into three sections, usually separated by rows of columns.

The approximately 1,500-year-old mosaic floor at the early Christian basilica of Agios Vasilios.

Today, little remains of the old church apart from parts of its foundations and the beautiful mosaic floor. The mosaic is decorated with geometric patterns, circles and plant-like ornaments. There is also a small chapel at the site. When I visited, I photographed both the mosaic floor and a stone fragment that appears to be part of an ancient fluted column.

The beaches of Agios Vasilios and Livadi, seen from Kastro.

Learn more about Kastro on Astypalea here »

Getting to Livadi from Chora and Pera Gialos is easy. Apart from driving or walking (about 15 minutes), you can use Astybus, Astypalea's modern and environmentally friendly ride-sharing service. Astybus operates electric minibuses that can be booked through the Astymove mobile app. Unlike a regular bus with a fixed timetable, you book your journey between designated stops. There are several stops in the Livadi area, including one at Agios Vasilios. Astybus is a very convenient option if you don't want to rent a car or scooter during your stay on Astypalea. The app also provides up-to-date information about the service.

The green oasis behind the beach, with trees, gardens and cultivated fields.

The name Livadi comes from the Greek word for meadow or pasture. Livadia is the plural form and means meadows. On many Greek islands, places bear these names, often because there is a source of water nearby and the land is more fertile than the surrounding countryside. This is particularly true on Astypalea, where the landscape around Livadi is extremely barren. Yet in the valley behind the beach, there is a small green oasis with orange trees, mandarin trees and grapevines. The contrast with the almost desert-like mountains is striking, to say the least.

This incredibly beautiful view is one I could never tire of.

Hotels and pensions at Livadi beach

Livadi is not just a beach, but also one of the main tourist areas on Astypalea. There is a surprisingly large selection of hotels, guesthouses and self-catering apartments, both down by the beach and on the hillsides above. Several properties offer sea views, and some also have views of Chora and Kastro. Accommodation ranges from simple self-catering studios to more luxurious hotels and suites. Staying in Livadi is particularly convenient if you want to be close to the beach and within walking distance of a taverna in the evening.

Chora and Pera Gialos. Personally, I prefer staying in Pera Gialos.

Personally, I prefer staying in Pera Gialos, where there is a wider choice of restaurants and where I enjoy spending my evenings. But for those whose main priorities are sunshine and swimming, Livadi is an excellent alternative. Livadi may not be the most spectacular beach on Astypalea, but the combination of lovely swimming, nearby tavernas and hotels, beautiful views of Chora and the fascinating history on the hill above makes it well worth a visit.

Book hotels in Livadi here »

Learn more about Astypalea here »