Xerokambos, Ziros and Etia in eastern Crete

Xerokambos (around 50 inhabitants) is, together with Kato Zakros, one of my favourite villages in eastern Crete. The Palm Beach of Vai is also in this part of Crete, but you cannot stay there, and then there is Paleokastro, which also has a few beaches. But I like Kato Zakros and Xerokambos best.

Xerokambos in eastern Crete is spread out across a low-lying landscape with many olive trees.

Xerokambos is a small coastal locality with low-key tourism, or perhaps more accurately, a sparsely built-up coastal area rather than a typical Greek village. The houses are scattered among olive groves, cultivated plots, and the arid Cretan landscape, while fine sandy beaches, small coves, and rocky stretches alternate along the coast.

If you appreciate peace and quiet, Xerokambos is the perfect choice. There are a few tavernas and guesthouses here, but no real tourist hub. People come here primarily for the beaches, the natural surroundings, and the tranquility. The Municipality of Sitia also describes Xerokambos as an area for those seeking a calm, relaxing holiday, featuring shallow, clear waters and numerous beaches and small coves.

Taverna Creta Sun in Xerokambos.

Xerokambos is also located within the Sitia UNESCO Global Geopark, which encompasses large parts of eastern Crete and extends all the way down to this area. It is easy to understand why when you see the dramatic landscape of mountains, gorges, rugged slopes, and striking rock formations. Sitia has been a UNESCO Global Geopark since 2015.

The beaches in Xerokambos

It is above all the beaches that make Xerokambos so special. There are so many beaches and small coves that you can easily find a favorite of your own. The water is often incredibly clear, shifting between light green, turquoise, and deep blue.

Alatsolimni Beach is one of the most distinctive beaches in the area. Inland from the beach lies Alatsolimni, a protected seasonal salt lake and wetland. During the wetter part of the year, the area fills with water, whereas in summer the lake evaporates, leaving behind a salt flat.

Argilos beach in Xerokambos in eastern Crete.

Argilos Beach is located in a small cove south of Xerokambos and is surrounded by striking, light-colored clay formations. It is this clay that gave the beach its name, and it has made the spot popular among swimmers who coat themselves in the clay before entering the sea.

The village of Ziros and the Ziros Plateau.

The abandoned village of Etia

From Ziros, the road continues west towards Etia, an almost completely abandoned village that is well worth a stop. Etia was one of the most important villages in the area during the Venetian era and belonged to the Venetian De Mezzo family. A census from 1583 recorded a population of 564 (compared to zero today), which gives a good idea of just how significant the village once was. Today, the village is abandoned, and many of the old stone houses lie in ruins.

On the way to the abandoned village of Etia.

As you walk among the ruins, it is easy to try to imagine what Etia looked like when the houses were inhabited. On one of the ruins, a cross carved into the stone above an arched doorway is still visible. It is such small details that make Etia far more interesting than one might initially think.

Ruins in Etia. A carved cross is visible above the arched doorway.

The most important building is Villa De Mezzo, the old manor house that likely belonged to the De Mezzo family. The building has since been restored and stands as one of the foremost monuments from Etia’s Venetian heyday. Built almost like a small fortress, Villa De Mezzo displays distinct Renaissance features. The rectangular structure is divided into three levels and originally included, among other things, an inner courtyard and vaulted storage areas. During the Ottoman era, the building served as the seat of the local governor. It was later damaged during the 1821 uprising and again in the major earthquake of 1856.

Villa De Mezzo in the abandoned village of Etia.

An information board in the village stated, at the time of our visit, that Villa De Mezzo was “one of the most beautiful architectural samples of this style in Southern Europe.” The house is certainly lovely, and even more impressive following its restoration, but I still don’t know if I would go quite that far.

Inside Villa De Mezzo in the abandoned village of Etia.

Agia Ekaterini and Panagia in Etia

The second building that truly stands out among the ruins is the beautiful church of Agia Ekaterini and Panagia. It is a two-aisled church dedicated to Saint Catherine and the Virgin Mary. Its exact age is uncertain, but the architecture shows Renaissance influences, and the beautifully ornamented bell tower is particularly noteworthy. There are also theories suggesting that the church may once have been used by both Orthodox and Catholic congregations.

The two-aisled church of Agia Ekaterini and Panagia in Etia.

When viewing the well-preserved white church alongside the crumbling stone houses nearby, the contrast is quite striking. The church almost seems to be watching over the abandoned village. Agios Ioannis is another, separate church in Etia, located a few hundred meters away.

Agia Ekaterini Church and the ruins of the abandoned village of Etia.

Etia isn’t a place where you need to spend half a day. However, if you enjoy old villages, Venetian history, and ruins, I definitely think you should stop and walk around for a while. It is also the perfect spot to stretch your legs after all the twists and turns on the road between Xerokambos and Ziros.

From Etia, you can continue towards Sitia or drive south towards the coast and Makrigialos. At Makrygialos Bay, Analipsi and Makrigialos lie so close together that they have effectively merged and feel like a single town.

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