Phoenix & Lykos near Loutro in Crete

Phoenix and Lykos are two tiny seaside settlements just west of Loutro in southern Crete. If you are looking for total tranquillity, this is the place where you should settle down. They are two of Crete's least known villages and very few tourists know about these two paradises. I write paradise, but for the vast majority, Phoenix and Lykos can be experienced as the opposite. There is nothing here except a few taverns and pensions.

From right to left: Phoenix, Lykos and the mountain village of Livaniana.

There is not much to do, even in high season. In other words, Phoenix and Lykos are perfect for those who wish to do nothing and for those who want to escape from today's stressful consumer society. Phoenix and Lykos are the burnout's paradise and should be prescribed by a doctor's prescription.

The crazy nasty road to Lykos photographed from the car.

To get to these settlements, you can either walk from Loutro via the famous E4 path, go by taxi boat from Loutro or go by car from Chora Sfakion. If you go by car, you will only get to Lykos, where you have to continue on foot to Phoenix. We have gone by car to Lykos, and that is nothing I recommend because the road is in terrible condition.

The road between Chora Sfakion and Lykos is not for those who are afraid of heights.

If you choose to walk from Loutro to Phoenix, the route begins at the church and goes steeply uphill until you reach flat ground. Here you will find the ruins of a Turkish fort and remains of an old Byzantine city (Old Phoenix). After a short distance, you'll see Phoenix in front of you. Then just continue down to the small "village".

The Turkish fort above Loutro dates from the 19th century.

Taverna Old Phoenix on the left and the small beach in Phoenix.

In Phoenix (or Finix) has a couple of pensions, a taverna and a small pebble beach. The taverna is called Old Phoenix and is highly recommended. Above the taverna is a pension of the same name. Phoenix is extremely peaceful and if you are looking for the ultimate tranquillity you can hardly find a better place.

Cosy little Phoenix west of Loutro.

Tavern Old Phoenix and the beach in Phoenix

Taverna Old Phoenix is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

You can continue to the tiny seaside settlement of Lykos from Phoenix. The path is easy to follow and is maintained by thousands of goats. After about 30 minutes you arrive in Lykos (or Likkos). Also here there are rooms for rent and a taverna. Unfortunately, the beach is anything but good. But apart from the beach, Lykos is also perfect for those looking for peace and quiet.

Lykos and Phoenix behind the rock.

In the picture above you see Lykos in the foreground and one of the buildings in Phoenix in the background. Loutro is located behind the hill, from where it is possible to walk to Phoenix and Lykos. You also see some cars in the picture, and sure, it is possible to drive here, but it is similar to a near-death experience.

You can take a "taxi" from Chora Sfakion to Lykos. If you dare!

Pension Nikos Small Paradise in Lykos.

The rather bad beach in Lykos.

Nikos Restaurant Small Paradise in Lykos.

High above Lykos and Phoenix lies the small sleepy hamlet of Livaniana (see picture at top right). The place itself it nothing to write home about, but the only taverna offers a stunning view of the sea, good food and a meditative atmosphere.

The hike between Lykos and Marmara beach is not for those who are afraid of heights.

A path runs along the coast from Lykos to Marmara beach, near the exit of the Aradena Gorge. We tried to walk to Marmara from Lykos, but we had to give up because it was just too steep. That is how it is when you are afraid of heights. But if you don't have vertigo, it is surely a piece of cake to walk to Marmara beach, where there actually is a taverna. If you hike through the Aradena Gorge, you can cool off at Marmara beach.

Read about the Aradena Gorge here »

Marmara beach where there is a taverna.

ACCOMMODATION IN THE AREA

Most people who visit the area live in Loutro or Chora Sfakion where the range of hotels and pensions is large. For those who want to experience something unique, you should stay a few nights in Lykos and Phoenix, there is good accommodation, but the range is very small.

Akrogiali Taverna and Pension in Lykos on the left in the picture.

Book The Old Phoenix in Phoenix here »

Book Edem House Finikas in Phoenix here »

Book Akrogiali in Lykos here »

Book Nikos Small Paradise in Lykos here »

WHAT YOU MUST NOT MISS WHEN YOU ARE IN THE AREA

Don't miss Loutro, which you can read about here »

READ MORE ABOUT CRETE HERE »