Phoenix & Lykos near Loutro in Crete
Phoenix and Lykos are two tiny seaside settlements just west of Loutro in southern Crete. If you are looking for total tranquillity, this is the place where you should settle down.
To get to these settlements, you can either walk from Loutro via
the famous E4 path, go by taxi boat from Loutro or go by car from Chora
Sfakion. If you go by car, you will only get to Lykos, where you
have to continue on foot to Phoenix. We have gone by car to Lykos, and
that is nothing I recommend because the road is in terrible condition.
Phoenix. Livaniana can be seen high above.
If you choose to walk from Loutro to Phoenix, the route begins at the church and goes steeply uphill until you reach flat ground. Here you will find the ruins of a Turkish castle and remains of an old Byzantine city (Old Phoenix). After a short distance, you'll see Phoenix in front of you. Then just continue down to the small "village".
Taverna Old Phoenix on the left and the small beach in Phoenix.
Phoenix (or Finix) has a couple of pensions, a taverna and a small pebble beach. The taverna is called Old Phoenix and is highly recommended. Above the taverna is a pension of the same name. Phoenix is extremely peaceful and if you are looking for the ultimate tranquillity you can hardly find a better place.
You can continue to the tiny seaside settlement of Lykos from Phoenix.
The path is easy to follow and is maintained by thousands of goats. After
about 30 minutes you arrive in Lykos (or Likkos). Also here there are
rooms for rent and a taverna. Unfortunately, the beach is anything but
good. But apart from the beach, Lykos is also perfect for those looking
for peace and quiet.
High above Lykos and Phoenix lies the small sleepy hamlet of Livaniana (see picture at top right). The place itself it nothing to write home about, but the only taverna offers a stunning view of the sea, good food and a meditative atmosphere.
A path runs along the coast from Lykos to Marmara beach, near
the exit of the Aradena Gorge. We tried to walk to Marmara from Lykos,
but we had to give up because it was just too steep. That is how it is
when you are afraid of heights. But if you don't have vertigo, it is surely
a piece of cake to walk to Marmara beach, where there actually is a
Lykos and Phoenix.
In the picture you see Lykos in the foreground and one of the buildings in Phoenix in the background. Loutro is located behind the hill, from where it is possible to walk to Phoenix and Lykos. You also see some cars in the picture, and sure, it is possible to drive here, but it is similar to a near-death experience.